06 Nov Istanbul Field Notes, Pt. 2
On the ferry
The port of Moda
Moda is a vibe — less about tourist attractions than the European side, and more of a neighborhood; a bit more down and dirty. I’m actually in Asia. What a wild concept, a city spanning continents. I’m at the port, watching ships come and go into the pale gold afternoon sun. A man sings beautifully and strums the guitar. Many languages are being spoken around me. Haven’t heard English. This is what I love. The red Turkish flag flutters on the back of boats. I’m on a journey. I imagine this 1500 years ago — 525 AD, Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire, remaining so until its conquest by the Ottoman Turks in 1453. The Ottomans renamed the city Istanbul. The port back then must have been a scene. Chaos. Mystery.
Clouds are rolling in. I could just stay here. But I gotta catch my ferry back to Europe.
Galatasaray
I’m at the pub to watch Galatasaray — the home football club in Istanbul — play in the Champions League, the most prestigious tournament in the world. Last week I was at this pub with my two friends, but now it’s just me.
During the day, I explored hill to hill across the cityscape of Istanbul. Quite the hike.
Galatasaray just went up 1 to 0. I hear the chants down the road and all around me. I’m in a more touristy spot. I wonder if I should go find a more local bar; it’s a classic one in the hand is worth two in the bush situation. Maybe I’ll go for the second half.
Watching football in the evenings is special to me. In the United States, it’s on early in the morning, as the games are being played in the evening on the other side of the world. Out here, I love to watch a match at the pub, drinking beer and watching with true fans.
I could go try to find another bar, but maybe I wouldn’t be able to find room, or I couldn’t get a pint, and I’d be bummed because I left the decent spot that I had. Or I can just stay where I am right now because, well, it’s good enough.
I peer around. I enjoy the chatter of the older British couple next to me. I spot another table, parents with their kid. The parents are drinking; the kid is having a Coke, playing on his phone, headphones in one (possibly both, I can’t see) ears. They all look pretty content, the parents a little drunk, but smiling, chatting with one another. I listen to the French being spoken at the table of girls nearby, although I don’t know what they’re saying. It’s all just experience. Noticing this, taking in my surroundings; it’s the same thing as if I were at a more local bar, watching the game and feeling like I made the right call . . .
Well, I went to another bar, and am glad I did. The difference is that at the last bar, they were playing international music really loud. The game was being watched passively. Here, the commentary of the match is playing through the speakers, no music. Everybody’s watching actively, their seats facing the television, focused on every play — upset at a bad call, happy at a good one. This is where I wanna be.
The dude who works at the store where I bought a beanie just passed by and recognized me, gave me a smile and a fist bump. In the store we both respected each other without having to converse, since I don’t think he spoke English. With time in a place, little things like that start to happen, and they make me happy. I’m part of the city — a drop of water in the ocean that’s Istanbul.
Life is short
I’m at the park working out after last night watching the match. This morning, I woke up groggy and questioning myself. I wondered whether I made the right decision to go out and drink.
But I made the memories — next to the British folks at the pub, then at the local bar, watching the game. I got to be there drinking and rolling cigs with locals watching their team win in the biggest tournament in the world.
Life is short. We won’t be here forever. But I’m here now, sweating it out with tears in my eyes, because the light filters through the trees, and the breeze is sweet, and others are out here too taking in the fresh air and pushing themselves, too, and the golden leaves fall, and the little things don’t matter, don’t matter at all.
We’re here. It’s all about the little things. It’s all beautiful. I had fun last night. Made epic memories. Nothing wrong with that.
I just want peace (plus cats)
My friend showed me a video from a podcast where the host asks a Buddhist monk — I think he was — if he’s happy. The man responds, I’m not trying to be happy. I want peace. And I told my friend that I agreed. Because we can’t really choose to be happy. What is happiness anyway?
But peace — peace is moment to moment experience devoid of conflict. And mostly, that is something we can create, even amidst a challenging time. Well, I’m pretty peaceful right now.
I’m in the hills of Cihangir. It feels like I found the pocket. Lively cafe after cafe full of locals going about their business. Took me almost two weeks to find this. Yet I’m somewhat near my hotel, just up in the hills, having turned right instead of left. I’m following the cats. Been photographing them, and it’s been a fun game. Setting them against backgrounds, checking obscure places where they might be. The cats are everywhere. You can’t go 15 feet without seeing one.
There’s French music playing from the cafe. Indistinct foreign chatter fills the air. It’s perfect fall temperature, mid-sixties. Stylish people stroll by continually. I have no actual problems. Things get to me. I’m facing some challenges personally, and I’m doing my best in this life. But nothing life-threatening. Nothing serious. And I’m so grateful for that. This is my happy place. A cheerful pocket of the world, where life goes on, with or without me.
A dog just came over and scooted under my legs. The owner mumbles in Turkish and chuckles. I’m at peace, and, well, I am happy. Fueling my curiosity, drinking coffee, smoking a hand-rolled cigarette on a small table in the afternoon in a vibrant neighborhood (I don’t smoke cigarettes at home, but when in Rome).
I love small wooden tables on sidewalks that you find in squares around the world. Sit, have a coffee or a beer, and watch life go by — my favorite form of entertainment.
Leaves rustle and dance in the late October wind. Some little kids are kicking a soccer ball through the middle of the intersection. It’s kind of nerve-racking, but they’re local and seem to know what they’re doing. This neighborhood feels like Lisbon. Hilly, animated, pastel buildings, soft light, the warm glow of cafe lights, which mean so much when drifting, not knowing where to go.
They shine all around, some twinkling like a starry night, some resolute, like well-established hearts, shining, shining, all around the world is shining, shining in mystery and shining in love, shining in pain, shining in courage. Cafe lights remain shining, a place for broken hearts, wandering souls to rest and gaze, take peace, for they are shining, too. Isn’t it enough to sit here and shine? I do love it when the clouds roll in.
The Clarinetist
Out of the shadowed street
Walking down the middle of the road
A man in a brown leather jacket, shirt and tie
Slung over his shoulder is a clarinet case
In his hands a black clarinet
His hair is slick, his mustache thick;
He looks as though he’s done this many times
He plays melancholic music, beautiful and simple
And I may be the only one who watches from my table
On the sidewalk, I sip a beer
He plays with no hat collecting tips
I think he simply wants to play
He does so over the crappy bar music
And I’m transported to another time
A time neither of us knows
He finishes
I clap, and he smiles, then plays another tune
He continues down the road, walking slowly, and I hear
The clarinet, faintly now
A memory of music
Fading in the night
Tattoo
It’s my last day in Istanbul, crossing over to Asia to get a tattoo. This city’s been good to me. And I to it. The smell of chestnuts and roasting corn pervades the port. The reflection of the sun beams off the stones.
There’s something miraculous about watching the birds from the ferry. They must be playing, sailing on every wisp of wind; the sea so blue, tinged with green, the color of adventure. It’s a perfect day. Temperate, wispy clouds, boats and sights of intrigue all around. How there’s a tunnel going under the river, I just can’t understand. But we’re passing over it, cars beneath me — what a planet we live on. Birds, something so ancient. And below there’s an underwater tunnel.
The dude at the tattoo parlor who looked angry, or cool, or dark, brought me a Snickers bar after six hours on the table. God, how badly I needed it. He was actually very kind. They all were. I did it. Going back over the river. Lightning illuminates the distant sky — orange, purple, rain on the way.
It rains through the night — rain, just as it was when I arrived, book ending my trip.
Homeward bound
I’m on the way to the airport. It’s a rainy day. The driver is driving fast, but he’s clearly in control. I enjoy the satisfying thud of the stick shift moving; gray, damp skies remind me of Germany, Europe, and I think of my favorite things: a crisp day, fresh air, a forest, a road, somewhere out there. Thoughts of home. I smile, excited.
The Turkish airport is solid. You go through security right as you enter. What a blessing to have this passport. The world is open to me. This thing fills me with a lot of joy; the pages fill with stamps, and I’m reminded of a computer game I used to play.
I forget precisely what it was, but in it I traveled the world, gathered stamps. I’m living that life. I love this life. Being in an airport, the vastness, the steel and marble and glass; walking around with nowhere to go; strangers ask me questions (do you know what time my plane boards? Do you know where the smoking area is? I guess I look like I have answers). Coming and going, never ceasing. I stop in a bookstore. I stop for a bite. Perhaps the most important thing I own is this passport. It’s freedom. Everything else is just stuff.











Vincent Van Patten
Posted at 05:54h, 09 NovemberWe are very lucky indeed, being able to travel this wonderful world. The stuff doesn’t matter–the freedom, and the ability to add to the world. That’s what’s important to me!
Adrienne Beaumont
Posted at 17:22h, 06 NovemberYes my passport is my most valuable possession. People come to Australia with the goal of obtaining an Australian passport. I’m lucky I was born here and can go almost anywhere I please. Love those Turkish cats!